The Zion Traverse

I'm going to try and not say too much about the Zion Traverse and let the pictures do the talking.  The Zion Traverse is a almost 50-mile route across southern Utah's Zion National Park.  Five of us from Lander did the run on June 2nd, with me and Evan starting at the East Entrance, and the team of Jenny, Emily, and Amber starting from Lee Pass.  We couldn't have done the run without my parents, who made the trip down from Wisconsin to watch our little one for us, resupply each group half way through the run, help cook meals, etc.  So thanks Mom and Dad!

Evan and I started on the sandy trails of the East entrance shortly after sunrise.  The temperatures were very pleasantly cool, which we appreciated because the day before was in the upper 90s by the afternoon.  With the mellow downhill trails, cool temperatures, and fresh legs we made quick progress down to the spectacular network of trails and slot canyons to Zion Canyon.

Somewhere around Echo Canyon

 After a quick pitstop at the Grotto, we headed up the other side of Zion Canyon towards Angel's Landing.  Still feeling fresh, we zipped right up the zig zagging switchbacks, which were thankfully still partially shaded.

I guess they are called "Walters Wiggles"

 Angel's Landing itself was very cool, but the scramble up was just OK.  Naturally it was a little crowded (everything is compared to Wyoming), and many people were in way over their heads.  There are chain hand rails the whole way up, which are pretty overkill, but I suppose they help a lot of people with the big exposure.

Big views on Angle's Landing

Top of Angel's Landing

The next section of trail along the West Rim was some of my favorite of the whole run.  Evan and I made slower progress here because we stopped to take so many pictures of the endless jaw dropping big views.  We didn't care though, we felt good and weren't in any hurry, and opted to take in the landscape and worry about speed another day.

Views from the West Rim Trail

By the time we were getting to the West Rim Trailhead to meet my folks at about mile 32, it was starting to get hot, we had ran out of water, and we were starting to feel a little tired.  We rested up for awhile, drank a bunch of ice cold coke, ate some food, and got ready to go again.  We reached the west  rim just 15 minutes after the ladies group so we had fun handing out for just a little bit.

West Rim TH Resupply

All of the runners

The best running of the day in the West Rim parking lot

Up until mile 32, the run was pure bliss. After that, things got tough for both groups.  It got hot, I mean really hot.  I don't have actual temperatures to say just how hot it was, but it was hot and it sucked and you can just trust me on that.  Our situation got worse in that many of the spots that supposedly had water according to Andrew Skurka's website did not have any water.  We were aware going into this that Utah had a dry spring and it was already June, so water could be scarce.  But running out of water when its really hot out is always depressing.

Evan and I made our way to the Kolob Plateau and Hop Valley while the ladies enjoyed the West Rim and cooked on the way to Zion Canyon.

The ladies trying to get some water from a "spring"

The ladies working their way to Zion Canyon

The ladies almost to Zion Canyon

Zion Canyon

Things went from bad to worse for me in the Kolob Plateau.  I started to have lot's of heat exhaustion symptoms highlighted by diarrhea and heat cramps.  I tried to stay in the shade and drink fluids, but nothing was going down without making me sick.  I sort of stopped eating and drinking, which I knew would have consequences, but more diarrhea was not really acceptable.  So the running slowed down eventually to a death march pace, but I tried to continue to enjoy the beautiful terrain.

The oven known as the Kolob Plateau

One foot in front of another time on the way up to Lee Pass

I choked down an Epic bar (which I usually enjoy) in an effort to get some more energy back, but that came up later as the most disgusting looking throw-up I've ever seen in my life.  We finally made it back to the car after about 13.5 hours.  Not the time we were hoping for, but fortunately this was a "fun" run and not a race, so its all good.  On the drive back to our campsite I threw up a few more times, and I wasn't able to eat anything until the next morning, which was a huge bummer.  The ladies had a tough finish too, with even less water than us, tendonitis flaring up, and gashes from falls; they finished just as the sun was going down.  So none of us were as fast we would have liked, but it was a good exercise in moving forward and staying positive, even when we all felt like crap.

So that is Zion in a nutshell. Since then I've been on vacation in Wisconsin, which has been quite exciting; my brother got engaged and Jenny's sister had her first baby!  On Saturday I'll be in Wyoming again pacing Evan for the Bighorn 100, and then Jenny runs the Northfork 50 the following weekend.  Maybe we'll fit a little relaxing in there somewhere as well.  Maybe.

Moccasin Lake Challenge

The Moccasin Lake Challenge was hands down the most unique running event I've ever been a part of.  The race director, Mikey Chingman, was very clear that this was not a race, but it was a challenge; a spiritual run to challenge yourself on the mountain; to run for your loved ones both present and departed; to spend a day on the mountain discovering who you are.  There was no first place or last place.

Well over 100 runners and even more community members at the start

The run was supposed to start at 10am, but to be frank, in typical Native style we didn't start running until 11:30, but that was OK.  We didn't start for an hour and a half because there was a ceremony honoring "Bunny" Shoyo, Jr., a Shoshone council member who passed away earlier that year.  Bunny was a strong supporter of running and keeping Shoshone culture alive.  After the the ceremony there was a cedaring (or "smudging") for the whole group.  Cedar smoke was wafted over all of the runners and prayers were said in Shoshone.  Four different songs were played by the Fort Washakie Ramblers, which is one of the local traditional singing and drumming groups.  To top it all off, before heading to the starting line everyone got in a circle and did a round dance.  Yep, you had to dance before you ran. At the starting line, everyone was given some cedar and sage to take with them on the run for protection.

"Honor Song" for Bunny Shoyo

Me and my BFF at the start

The road to Moccasin Lake is a typical mountain road; rocks and ruts of every shape and size, long switchback with big drop off at every turn; sticky mud still from melting snow.  Another fun part of the event is that you did not have to stay on the road.  Since it was not a race, runners were allowed to cut switchbacks or take whatever shortcuts you wanted.  I ran the whole way with Evan and we stuck to the road to get all 18 miles in, but some people ran as few as 14 miles due to their shortcuts!  Either way, we all climbed over 4,000 feet and ended up at beautiful Moccasin Lake and had a great day in the mountains.

Getting up there

Throughout the day the skies looked threatening, and it looked as if thunderstorms would give the runners a cold and cruel shower at any moment, but the skies held of, as least where we were.  The run to Moccasin Lake is beautiful, with views of mountain meadows and alpine peaks, still blanketed in snow, at every turn.  Aid along the way was fantastic, with people driving by in pick-up trucks regularly offering water and Gatorade.  Several other drum groups were set up along the way as well, with their drum beats matching our heartbeats as we steadily climbed up the mountains.

Storm clouds looming in exposed terrain

Arriving at Moccasin Lake was fantastic; volunteers were already cooking burgers and 8-years old's were piled on four-wheelers and ripping through the mud.  We were pleasently surprised at our race swag too; thick, high quality Under Armour pullovers with a cool logo.  These were especially appreciated because it was cold up there above 9,000 feet.

Evan and I at the still frozen Moccasin Lake

At the beginning of the run, Mikey said it was mandatory that you got a ride back down on the back of someone's truck.  He said the idea behind this is so that you can see where you ran, and so you could be humbled.  He wasn't kidding; the ride back down was humbling, and a blast.

What the hell is all back here? Thanks for the ride!

View from the back of the truck on the way down... notice the foot prints on the left

The chicks enjoying the ride down

I was almost bounced out of the truck only once, and now my pack has a few oil stains on it from the bed of the truck, but we had a joyful ride back down cheering on other runners as they continued their journey up the mountain.

If you can, do the Moccasin Lake Challenge next year.  There has been a lot of tension between whites and Natives this past year with the EPA talking about boundaries and huge settlement checks coming out, but the Moccasin Lake Challenge was the perfect way to bring people together.  There was nothing but positive energy, encouragement, and togetherness.

A couple more pictures...

Jenny and Emily cruising into the finish

Chilling at Moccasin Lake, Wind River Indian Reservation

Next up, just over a week until the Zion Traverse.  I'm really liking 2014 so far.

Spring Mountains

Not big mountains, but they are still mountains.

Now that some of the snow is finally starting to melt, the past two weeks I was able to get up into the lower elevations of the Wind River Mountains (affectionately known as "The Winds").  This of course brought lot's of mud and snow, but also good climbing and descending, big views, and no rattle snakes.  Jenny and I even took a day off of work so we could run together with our good friend, the legendary Emily Tilden.

Lenticular cloud above the Lander Front and melting snow

Bad Ass Chicks

Jenny and Emily working their way up Fairfield Hill

The big mountains are still buried in snow, which really is a good thing, but for someone such as myself, views like this are a tease.  I can hardly wait to go and visit these old friends that I have not spent time with since September.

Wind River Peak is still nicely blanketed in snow, and will be for awhile. 

I was pleasantly surprised last week to be able to get in 75 miles of running with a little over 9,000 feet of vertical.  Not bad at all for the end of April in Wyoming.  I did a back-to-back on Friday and Saturday, with Friday being 25 miles up and around Fairfield with Jenny and Emily, and then I ran the Lander Half Marathon course on Saturday in 1:37.  The temps were in the lower 80's Saturday, so I tried to get some speed on my tired legs while suffering a little bit in the heat to get ready for the Zion Traverse.  Sunday was a much needed day of rest.

A couple of weeks ago my feet felt pretty beat up after running in the Moab area, I had one of those "never say never" moments and bought a pair of these:

Hoka One One Rapa Nui 2

That's right, I finally jumped on the Hoka One One bandwagon with the Rapa Nui 2.  In the last couple of years I have loved wearing low to the ground shoes, with a low drop, and firm cushioning.  As it turns out, my joints and feet are tolerating that less well than they used too.  Enter the maximum cushioning and low drop of Hokas. They aren't perfect; some of the stitching inside rubbed parts of my feet totally raw.  But to be fair, the cushioning and protection were marvelous with the 10,000 feet of descent this week.  I do feel like my legs and feet felt less beat up (besides the blistery stuff) after a heavy week of training. They are the least cushioned of all the Hoka shoes (which kind of blows my mind), but they still have more than is really necessary, in my opinion.  I am sure that I will keep using them throughout the season, especially for some long days.


Finally, the friendly folks at First Endurance were kind enough to give me some products to sample before I really get into the 2014 racing season.  I used their EFS drink much last summer and I really liked it, especially on really hot days.  I'm looking forward to trying out the EFS Liquid Shot (their version of gel) and Ultragen recovery drink.  Cheers!

Porcupine Rim Trail - Negro Bill Canyon Link-up

This weekend was our "Spring Break" at Fort Washakie, meaning we had a four day weekend.  Hardly exciting compared to a whole week off, but we were glad to head south to warm temperatures and canyon country.  

Camping outside of Moab, UT

On Saturday, Jenny ran in the Desert Rats Trail Running Festival Marathon.  We've had this race on the radar for awhile and it was the perfect opportunity for a training "race" for Jenny before the North Fork 50 in June.  It rained almost the entire race and the clay filled dirt turned into a slippery and sticky mess.  Jenny crossed the finish line in 5:04 which was good enough for first in her age group.  Ella and I played in the mud while Jenny was out working hard.

Cruising through the mud

Porcupine Rim Trail - Negro Bill Canyon

After Jenny had her fun running on Saturday, I got to hit the trails on Easter Sunday outside of Moab, Utah.  I ran the well known 14.5 mile Porcupine Rim Trail and connected it to the very popular Negro Bill Canyon trail for a total of a little over 20 miles.  It was my first 20-some mile run of the year and I was surprised at how well it went. As to be expected, the temperature rose quickly to around 80 degrees, and with the sun beating down, it was a hot few hours on the trail.  The trail was super rocky and rugged; how anyone mountain bikes that thing is beyond me.

Hydration and fueling are always critical, but especially so in the desert.  I ate one pack of Gu Chomps, one pack of Honey Stinger Chews (inferior to the Gu Chomps, in my opinion), and drank two 17 oz. bottles of Gu Roctane, two 17 oz. bottles of First Endurance EFS, and one 17 oz. bottle of water.

Taking off on the Porcupine Rim Trail

Porcupine Rim with the La Sal Mountains

Looking out from the rim at Castle Valley

Looking across the Colorado River canyon into Arches NP

Tayo desperately trying to cool off with the Colorado River in sight

Negro Bill Canyon

Negro Bill Canyon

Sunlight below Morning Glory Arch, Negro Bill Canyon

The rest of the weekend we spent camping, hiking, playing in a creek with the Skinner family, and having an all around great time.  The mountains here are just barely starting to thaw out, so for the next couple of weeks I'm hoping to start getting some serious climbing in.  Only five weeks until Zion Traverse and 10,000+ feet of vert!

Playing in camp

"Icing" our legs

Slick Rock Season

This was the best week of training so far in 2014.  I'm starting to be able to get more miles in, and they are getting faster with less pain.  Because the mountains are still filled with a nearly record setting snowpack, I spent much of the weekend running on slick rock in Red Canyon and at The Bus Loop.  When Evan and I got out for 13 miles on Sunday the air was crisp, but the sun was hot; it was starting to feel almost summer-like.

Running some slick rock

I've also been getting some miles in after school helping a few Fort Washakie students get ready for the Mocassin Lake Challenge; an 18 miles mountain run on the Wind River Reservation at the end of May.  I think it's pretty special that there is an event like this on the rez, and it is super cool that some high school students are up for the challenge.  Some of my student work really hard to move as little as possible throughout the day, so to have some students that want to run after school is phenomenal.  I'm really proud of this group and its fun to already see them looking stronger as they run.

Manny, Tara, Sheyanne, and Isaac

Jenny and I both got after it on the track this week with some 6 minute repeats.  The Lander Running Club is doing some cool stuff and I am glad to be a part of it.  I put a picture of a Jenny up instead of me because she is much better looking than I am.

400m All-American turned ultra runner

Moose just slipping away as I whipped my camera out

On Saturday I had a fun run on the cliffs of Red Canyon.  I kind of wandered around exploring and it was a nice little adventure run.  I was very surprised to run into a couple of moose in a narrow drainage. I suppose that is their winter range, but nonetheless I was still not expecting two giant moose to appear 30 yards in front me.

The "trail"

Tayo has been a good running buddy this spring

Red Canyon

Jenny and Amber did a gnarly 18 mile run on Saturday up Fairfield Hill and at The Bus Loop.  They are both getting ready for the Zion Traverse too, as well as the North Fork 50 miler at the end of June.  Here is a picture of them looking way too happy:

All smiles at The Bus

And of course, while Evan and I were out running on Sunday, Jenny and Amber made a ridiculously delicious brunch.  Here are the blueberry-banana muffins to prove it:

Also, as requested, here is a link to the recipe:
http://www.adashofdelish.com/2013/12/gluten-free-blueberry-banana-bread.html

For flour, Jenny used rice, garbanzo bean, and coconut rather an an "all-purpose" flour mix.  I just need to say it again: these muffins rocked my world.

Next, its time for a recovery week. After that we'll be heading down to Fruita for Jenny to run the Desert Rats Trail Running Festival Marathon, and then onto Moab for camping, running, hiking, and a little more slick rock fun.